Now on the warm down to the trip. Well into a routine now, we lifted the anchor and set off from Taransay for Leverburgh. The weather was fine, nice journey. Arrived safely. Just in time to catch the ferry from Leverburgh to Berneray. And so the trip came to and end.
If you’re just reading this, I did do a longer write up of the days 3, 4 and five which were the main paddles and rest day…probably the most interesting of the St Kilda trip.
Now 7am…I’m away to Skye for a paddle…
No time to write anything for this either. In short, I climbed the hill, Conachair, then we set off back to the ‘mainland’. It was a bit of a gale and the swell was pretty big. Nevertheless, we made it to Taransay safely.
Today's been a day of relaxing and recovering , both from yesterday's epic paddle and list night's whisky. Didn't sleep great, maybe due to dehydration from drinking. Spent morning tired but chatty, chatting to Julie and Uwe who headed off in the helicopter – the end of their bird counting stint on St Kilda. Fell asleep in the afternoon for a few hours – afternoon sleeping's great – mental note: do that more often! After waking I felt refreshed thankfully. Had a shower, brushed my teeth and felt like a new man! Moved the tent as this would be my fifth night of camping, to save affecting the grass below too badly. I'd been invited for dinner by the NTS work party so went to the cottage for a great hot meal. It was a nice privilege to sit at a table, with people, drinking wine – a welcome break from camping – in return for showing some photos on a laptop: good deal for both parties I think! The group went to the Puff In after, so after sitting outside in the rain, quickly downing a pint, I went back to the tent.
Today was without a doubt the most amazing one-day sea paddle I've ever done! It hadn't clicked before now that I was actually on St Kilda, but when I was paddling across to Boreray and the gannets were flying overhead, it clicked, and life suddenly seemed very simple – free from worry and able to just be aware of the experience of now.
When I woke up I made a tuna sandwich before anything else because I was so hungry and just wanted food straight away, then fried some sausages and mushrooms to have in another sandwich. Sat chatting to Julie and Uwe most of the morning, thinking about where I'd paddle that day – Boreray was top of the list! So it came to 12 o'clock, I still had a few hours of the north going flood tide left, so I got my stuff together and set off. The crossing was into a small swell which slowed me slightly, nevertheless, one hour later I got to Boreray – wow! I started paddling anticlockwise round the island and passed the landing point which –being a near vertical rocky face with 1m of swell and coated in barnacles – didn't exactly look appealing! 'Would I land there?' I thought to myself. I thought I'd paddle round first and mull over it. A few minutes later I decided 'yes' – this was a once in a lifetime opportunity that I wasn't prepared to miss. Sure it was a tad risky, but what' life without risk? I round the north side of Boreray and slowly Stac an Armin came into sight, towering from the ocean below. Thousands of gannets spiralled above my head.
The swell calmed slightly on the north side which was comforting. Coming round to the west side of Stac an Armin I looked up in awe at the shear cliff face of the highest (190m) sea stack in the
Crossing back to Boreray was like watching a scene from Lord of the Rings, craggy steep slopes towering from the sea then disappearing into the cloud.
I disturbed a few common seals who were as surprised to see me as I was them! And so I rounded the south tip and got back to the landing spot. This would be the culmination of my 5 star sea kayak training and practice. Having decided on my plan of action, I got my tow rope out, tied it to myself and the boat, slipped into the water and swam over to the barnacle covered rocks, waited for the swell to life me to a step, then climbed up. Pulled boat round and after some painful and dangerous lifting, both for me and the boat, up the near vertical face, I managed to secure the boat using a few climbing anchors.
Phew! Then the next challenge – the rock climb up to the steep grassy slopes – not very technically difficult, but the level of exposure and consequence was unlike anything I'd ever done before in my limited climbing experience! And so I ascended, keeping clear of the cliff edge and eventually reaching the top. Although only after passing the test of the Great Skuas who when I neared the top, continuously took turns at dive bombing me while I dived to the ground to avoid them. (Spot the Skua in the photo below, before it took off to take its turn. Skua videos on the SusExp Youtube page.)
I cautiously approached the summit and, being s?*! scared of heights (or at least standing at the edge of high cliffs) I peered over the summit to thankfully see a steep grassy slope, instead of an overhang into an abyss.
I spent 5 minutes at the top then made my way back down, taking my sweaty crocs off for easier walking and to use as a shield against the Skuas. The descent down the grassy slopes was pleasant but the down climb on the rocks to the boat was definitely a lot more intimidating than the climb up. I did the rough water landing sequence in reverse, jumping into the water then getting back in my boat by getting a leg over and shuffling up the back of the boat.
Relieved to be relatively safe again, I set off back to Hirta, running with the swell and the wind, but nursing a strained elbow which was complaining about the steep reintroduction to sea paddling. 45 minutes later, after some surfing and avoiding the cruise ship, I arrived in
The rest of the night is another story which involved Ian the NTS ranger, Glynn the NTS archaeologist, Will the Skua Man, Julie and Uwe, a nice hot meal at a table, whisky and honey schnapps, and lots of laughter tales about the recent weeks.
Today was a day of very mixed feelings, from fearing for my life to being deliriously happy to be alive – the latter probably induced by making it through a few situations alive! - And all those no so extreme feelings in between: but mainly fear. It was a day of risk and adventure, and seriously questioning my reasons for doing this, and rediscovering the answer. A day when I felt lonely and would have appreciated company, but also appreciated the loneliness that solitude brings and the insightful perspective on life that can bring.
I set off on my paddle after a breakfast of sausage and mushroom sandwiches and mint tea. There were many high and low points today – I'll try and distil into the most interesting...
I left the bay through the gap between Dun and Hirta and set off west. The south coast of
For a short while I'd been hearing a banging and thought I might have been taking on water and it was sloshing around in the boat. Just then I looked behind me and say my day hatch cover was off! Disaster – all the flares were soaked! This was a big problem. After a couple of minutes of trying to work out how this had happened and trying to decide what to do, I came to the conclusion that I would just carry on – what use were flares when I had neither mobile phone or VHF signal and the nearest lifeboat was probably half a day away?! This is the thing I really enjoy about paddling on your own, you've only got yourself to worry about and can do what you want – not to say I don't enjoy paddling with other people too – but the lack of responsibility for anyone other than yourself is quite liberating.
Back to the arch...after waiting for a calm period I went for it, just as I did a wave rolled across the gap and pushed me towards the rocks. At this point I decided I wanted to live another day, paddled backwards as fast as I could, and went round the safe way. Rounding Soay was pretty cool.
Found a huge blow hole (see SusExp Youtube video soon to be uploaded) on the west side, then continued round CCW back round to the gap again. Going straight for the safer gap I was faced with a difference challenge – the south-going tide was running through, not that fast but enough to make it wee bit choppy and to take a bit longer.
I was relieved to get to the calmer north side of Hirta and enjoyed the relatively relaxed paddle along the coast towards to cliffs. A lovely bit of coast for exploring some huge caves and arches – all of which I tried to get quickly in and out of as a boulder fell last year from one of the arches.
The lack of control you have in these situations sends shivers down my spine and adrenalin pumping through my veins. I just think 'one fall and that's it...over'. Good for making you appreciate life. So I got to the cliffs below Conachair – at 430m they're the highest sea cliffs in the
Looking up the cliffs that disappear into the cloud which had a golden glow from the sun was truly awesome – it was like some exotic tropical island. To be honest I don't feel words can do justice, but hopefully a photo can go part way.
Now writing this at 6am the morning before I leave for the Skye trip, I’m tight for time, so I’ll need to make this succinct….
After another tasty meal on the Elinca, including some of Angus' fine scrambled egg and everything else that is part of a good healthy Scottish breakfast (Stornoway black pudding), we went back on the island. I said hello to a few people then tried to decide what to do…I had to go for a paddle…just s short one. So I got kitted up and set off on a trip round Dun - there (were) a few arches that I wanted to see if I could get through.
Needed and easier day to get used to the swell before the bigger paddles, so this was it. I headed out the gap between Dun and Hirta, sat bobbing around for a bit getting used to the swell, then turned left. Coastline similar to Hirta (see day 3). Nice introduction to the swell. Found an arch and after timing it to avoid breakers, got through safely…a few crashed in scaring me though…I suppose it’s partly the fact that the waves are all much louder in caves/arches that makes them seem worse. Maybe they weren’t that bad, but it was my first day paddling since last summer, so I was erring on the side of cautious. So I got through, went back across the bay, practiced some self rescues, went in and had tuna sandwiches for dinner and read my book.
After a good night's sleep I was ready for the next step in the journey. The ferry left around 7ish, had a fine crossing, beautiful day, flat water. The way the ferry weaves in and out of the islands to cross the sound is worth the journey for that experience alone – the Christmas tree of red and green lights leading the skipper safely. Some great islands for camping here, but also a fair bit of tide coming through at times – check the yachtsman's pilot for the western isles if you'd like to confuse yourself. As we got closer I saw the tallest mast at Leverburgh pier and new this must be the Elinca.
So we arrived in Leverburgh, and sure enough, the Elinca was preparing to leave. Skippered and run by Angus Smith and his son Innes who have a company called Beyond the Blue Horizon based in Stornoway, the Elinca was one of the few boats designed for the BT Global Challenge, a 67-foot steel hulled boat that'll stand to most things (as testified by Angus and Innes!).
I carried my boat and gear over, said hello to everyone, tied my boat down securely, packed the bags away and started helping. Innes and Angus kindly offered me the lift out (and back) in return for peeling potatoes, pulling ropes, and washing dishes. Innes wasn't slow to start me on these tasks – thanks Innes. Even if you're paying for the trip, it's great value for what you get.
So we untied, and set off. A fine day for a crossing, we headed west – next stop St Kilda!! I hadn't been on a yacht in a while – since May last year, on the Elinca, heading out in the Minch to test some of Angus' new rigging – so it was a real privilege. The sea was relatively flat and crossing was like crossing a desert waiting for the mirage of palm trees that is the St Kilda archipelago. To cut a long (5-hour) story short, we arrived safe and sound. Seeing St Kilda appear on the horizon was half the excitement, and after rounding Boreray with its stunning sea cliffs and surrounding Stac and islands – Stac Lee and Stac and Armin (the highest sea Stac in the British Isles) – we parked in
It was still earlyish in the day so we went ashore on the tender, I set up my tent in the campsite (small area with a few walls dedicated to campers), said hello to a few locals – Julie and Ewe, who were counting birds for the RSPB. Walked into the Puff Inn, the pub on St Kilda which is only usable by the military base (there's a missile tracking range) and NTS sponsored staff. The NTS ranger for 2009 is Ian who I asked for, said hello to, and found out he knew nothing about me coming! Funny seeing as I'd been e-mailing the NTS about this for months, however, I'll gloss over that one with the caveat that I felt bad for Ian because I arrived unannounced and he seemed pretty shocked. Although, there was a surprise in store, which I think redeems me.
Had a tasty dinner and sleep aboard the Elinca.
The first few days I didn't keep a journal and, writing this 2 months after, I'm struggling to remember the details. But I'll try what I can, without putting in any boring details. No need to mention the train journey from
After landing on the beach and getting my bag and waiting for my dad to finish work as the security guard I had to get home and sort all the kayaking stuff and be on a ferry to Eriskay 3 hours later. After inflating the new Handirack (roof rack that fits on any car with 4 opening windows – or can be made to fit on a 2 opening window car if you use the boot) - great value at £55ish for a roof rack that'll fit almost any car – collecting all the paddling and saying a quick hello to the folks I was on the ferry with my mum driving to Berneray ready to get the ferry across the Sound of Harris the next morning. Stayed in North Uist Outdoor Centre, and handy wee stop just outside Lochmaddy.
