A Week on the Edge: D1 (Berneray to) Leverburgh to St Kilda on the Elinca

After a good night's sleep I was ready for the next step in the journey. The ferry left around 7ish, had a fine crossing, beautiful day, flat water. The way the ferry weaves in and out of the islands to cross the sound is worth the journey for that experience alone – the Christmas tree of red and green lights leading the skipper safely. Some great islands for camping here, but also a fair bit of tide coming through at times – check the yachtsman's pilot for the western isles if you'd like to confuse yourself. As we got closer I saw the tallest mast at Leverburgh pier and new this must be the Elinca.

So we arrived in Leverburgh, and sure enough, the Elinca was preparing to leave. Skippered and run by Angus Smith and his son Innes who have a company called Beyond the Blue Horizon based in Stornoway, the Elinca was one of the few boats designed for the BT Global Challenge, a 67-foot steel hulled boat that'll stand to most things (as testified by Angus and Innes!).

I carried my boat and gear over, said hello to everyone, tied my boat down securely, packed the bags away and started helping. Innes and Angus kindly offered me the lift out (and back) in return for peeling potatoes, pulling ropes, and washing dishes. Innes wasn't slow to start me on these tasks – thanks Innes. Even if you're paying for the trip, it's great value for what you get.

So we untied, and set off. A fine day for a crossing, we headed west – next stop St Kilda!! I hadn't been on a yacht in a while – since May last year, on the Elinca, heading out in the Minch to test some of Angus' new rigging – so it was a real privilege. The sea was relatively flat and crossing was like crossing a desert waiting for the mirage of palm trees that is the St Kilda archipelago. To cut a long (5-hour) story short, we arrived safe and sound. Seeing St Kilda appear on the horizon was half the excitement, and after rounding Boreray with its stunning sea cliffs and surrounding Stac and islands – Stac Lee and Stac and Armin (the highest sea Stac in the British Isles) – we parked in Village Bay. Wow, it's like some different world. I couldn't believe we were actually in St Kilda.

It was still earlyish in the day so we went ashore on the tender, I set up my tent in the campsite (small area with a few walls dedicated to campers), said hello to a few locals – Julie and Ewe, who were counting birds for the RSPB. Walked into the Puff Inn, the pub on St Kilda which is only usable by the military base (there's a missile tracking range) and NTS sponsored staff. The NTS ranger for 2009 is Ian who I asked for, said hello to, and found out he knew nothing about me coming! Funny seeing as I'd been e-mailing the NTS about this for months, however, I'll gloss over that one with the caveat that I felt bad for Ian because I arrived unannounced and he seemed pretty shocked. Although, there was a surprise in store, which I think redeems me.

Had a tasty dinner and sleep aboard the Elinca.