Day 17: Lochmaddy to Berneray (~12Nm, 4hrs)

Today took ages to get started due to coming back from my mid-expedition break in Skye. I got back to Lochmaddy Outdoor Centre at 8.30ish lastnight and there were people there! It was nice to meet some new people: a bird photographer; some BT people; and a holiday cyclists. I managed to eventually leave the hostel 11.25pm. I worked out tidal stream times and planned the trip the night before, so it was just a matter of packing the boat.

I decided to leave a few things in the outdoor centre to pick up the the return journey. The Kelly Kettle, it's great, but takes up too much space when I already have pots that I can boil water in - though not as efficiently. Also left behind used maps and charts, face mask, sun hat and spare flask. It's all so far unused kit that I didn't want to be carrying.

I set off intending to have lunch on a skerry but didn't have time due to the late departure as the tide was turning, and the flood tide, which flows SE in the Sound of Harris, was at it' spring rate almost, in the wrong direction, so I wanted to avoid it as much as possible.

I got to the hostel shore, had a wee play in the tidal race that was flowing, then landed to set up camp. The east facing beach on Berneray is amazing and has a great view. There were no rocks at the campsite I chose on the machair so I had to chop some wood for tent pegs. The sand was too far away from camp and although I dug up the top layer of vegetation next to the camp, I decided in the end it would be best to just use the cooker at the Gatliff/SYHA hostel to save messing up the environment. The hostel's now been refurbished with aluminium foil lined insulation which makes it much lighter inside (roof was black before) and much warmer! I cooked dinner, had a few nice chats to people: German couple on 6 week tour of Scotland tour; NZ couple on Europe tour and a Glasgow couple just cycling around. So now I'm lying here, shattered from the day's padling.

Today's food: breakfast - porridge/jam; lunch - smoked salmon; dinner - potatoes, lamb chops, carrot.

Day 11: Roisinis to Lochmaddy (12Nm, 4hrs)

Again I'm writing this in hindsight - was too tired and last night to write.

I'm sitting in Lochmaddy Outdoor Centre. Slept in the porch of the centre which was pretty luxurious, having a roof over my head and not having to set the tarp up. The paddle was good, as usual, in lots of ways, with a few challenges here and there.

I had a crap night's sleep so I ended up in 'bed' till 9am. I thought this was a wee bit late considering I had to get to Lochmaddy, so I skipped cooking anything and just had bread and jam, dragged my boat down to near the water's edge, then packed it.

I had this idea (above) when I was packing things away, that for the campers, it would be easier if a pile of stones was left at good campsites so they could be used to hold down tent pegs/tarps. In the long run, it would save energy because people wouldn't have to keep lugging stones backwards and forwards. Maybe this could catch on...'leave a pile, save a mile?!!'

Then the first oversight of the day…I usually plan the day's trip after packing the boat, but this time I was moving on to a different map, which I had already packed away! "Oh well" I thought to myself, "I'll do it without the map". So I set off along the coast hoping for a "Turn Left Here" sign - there was none, but I found Lochmaddy in the end. Throughout the day I had a severe case of having a sore bum - sitting in a kayak in the same position all day, no matter how much shoogling around and stretching you do, you get sore - maybe I need to pad my boat out a bit more. The next challenge was finding the outdoor centre, which after paddling down the wrong inlet (navigating from a vague childhood memory), then paddling back and asking someone, I found it.

I pulled my boat up, had a wee look in the centre to say hello – no one there - then went for a walk into town, used the internet in the museum, went to the nearest bar to find another place I could use the internet, got chatting, had a few pints, arranged to borrow someone's laptop so I could write up the blog. Then went back to the centre and met the people who were staying there - a group of divers who were there for the week diving off a wreck in the Sound of Harris. I had what was possibly my nicest tastiest dinner yet by making use of the oven – lamb chops, peeled potatoes and sorrel! MmmmMmmm! I also put the joint of lamb in the oven, went for a few more pints, wrote the blog in the pub on the guy’s laptop, then went back to take the meat out which had been slow cooking on 150 deg C for a few hours – it was perfectly cooked, just by luck because I hadn’t timed it. There are lots of good things about this place, one of which is that there’s Sorrel – I’ve only found it where people have lived or are living and no where else, so I’m eating as much as I can to get as much green stuff as possible!

Day 10: Roisinis to Carinish, RTN (12Nm, 4hrs)

I'm lying in my bivvy bag at the end of another good day. I'm lacking inspiration to write - maybe a few swigs of whisky will help - yup, that's better...

Today was a day of rest. I used the MSR petrol stove, to save effort of collecting heather, to cook porridge with jam. I enjoyed the porridge more than I ever have before, enjoying the change from concentrated protein breakfasts of eggs and blackpudding. After breakfast I went for a wash in the nearby loch and took the opportunity to wash some clothes too. It was unbelievable refreshing, after I'd got over the shock, splash my face, rub myself down with sphagnum moss and go for a swim.

After some sunbathing I made a shopping list and set off for a day trip to the shops to restock. It was a longer paddle than I had thought, however I was working with the tide, so that was nice. I got to Carinish Inn to have a pint and hopefully find some local producers. I didn't find the latter, but the pint was great - a nice cold Tenant’s Lager! After chatting to people I got a list to the nearest shop, got some locally produced food (bread, jam, oatmeal) and walked back to the boat.

A pleasant paddle back in the sun followed. The weather was just fantastic! I got back at 6pm and started preparing dinner: cleaning mussels; peeling potatoes; and collecting heather + firewood. Tonight's dinner was the most decadent yet - venison + mussels, potatoes, with golden syrup cake (baked in the UK), although I ate the cake first! It was all really nice, but I'm longing for fresh fruit and vegetables!

I'm happy that I've now caught up with daily writing and video diary entries. Pretty tired...

Day 10: (Morning after…) Loch Ayenort to Roisinis (20Nm, 7hrs 30mins)

I’m lying on top of my bivvy bag in the morning sun, listening to the wind up radio. It’s a program about a play on the selfishness that is almost forced upon people in a capitalist economy. I would have written last night but I was too tired after the long day.

Yesterday was my longest paddle ever, both by distance and time (20Nm, 7.5hrs) and was my latest arrival of the expedition so far (7.30pm). The day started in the Otter hide. I got up, found breakfast in the boat (sea gull and hens eggs and Stornoway black pudding), cooked it on the camp fire, then went up to get some water from Archie’s tap and say a last good bye. One and a half hours later I left, after a cup of tea, bit of cake and an in depth look at the weather forecast on the internet.

So I was off on what would be my longest day so far. I set off at 11.45am – I wanted to be away at 10.30am. The tide was now ebbing, which means its flowing south in the Minch and would be against me all the way.

To cut a long paddle short, it was amazing. I watched a sea eagle patrolling the coast, watching me, being pestered by the gulls and oyster catchers. I saw my second lighthouse of the trip on Uisinish point, made a 6Nm open crossing, ate my emergency mars bar, worked on my forward paddling (constantly), paddled into one of the best caves I’ve ever been in, had to navigate using a compass and map for the first time on the expedition to find my way through all the skerries and inlets to find the right one, and eventually arrived at Roisinis point at 7.30pm. I wanted to use the emergency stove but instead went to collect firewood and heather, peeled potatoes, packed my lithe full of chives/wild garlic/dried ham, cooked it up, and had a few spoonfuls of jam for pudding.

I now feel pretty connected with nature and a bit disconnected with civilisation and the rat race – both good things I think – not that there is much of a rat race in Barra, or at least not from my point of view. Maybe there is for other people, but not many I don’t think – Barra’s too relaxed a place for anyone to be in a race other than the Craigard or the Castlebay Bar.

Today’s food: sea gull + hens eggs, Stornoway black pudding; mars bar; lithe stuffed with wild garlic + chives and potatoes; jam.

Day 9: (Morning) Preparing to leave Loch Ayenort for Roisinis

I was too tired to write last night, so I'm now sitting on a rock on the shore in Loch Ayenort, in front of the fire that I cooked breakfast on and am now burning some peat, which has got a lovely yellow coloured ash and nice smell. The morning sun (9am) is casting a pretty light on the Loch, and I'm just about to start packing my boat before going up to say a final good bye to Archie, Angie, Margaret and Graham, who are some of the most generous and hospitable people I've ever met - thank you for all your help!

Yesterday was as usual, a good day. I got the fire going for breakfast, cooked some porridge with jam and boiled some water for a flask for tea, collecting some of the leaves that Archie said could be used for medicinal tea - I later found it was Comfrey.

Then I went up to meet Alistair McEachan, who again was very kind. We had already arranged by e-mail to meet, so Alistair came with gifts of Record potatoes, lamb chops, a joint of lamb and a leg of venison! That'll be on the grill tonight with a few herbs! We had a cup of tea with Alistair before he left.

Then it was off fishing with Archie along a few headlands and reefs out of Loch Ayenort. My fishing attempts so far had failed, so I was eager for success! And to cut a long story very short, it was successful and by the end of a few hours we had over ten lithe and sathe. Also on the trip out we collected some pigeon Cach from a cave, saved a lamb from certain death on a cliff, collected some sea gull eggs which I just hard boiled for breakfast and lunch, and collected some mussels which are tonight's dinner together with fish and venison, or maybe I'll save the venison and mussels for tomorrow!

We had a nice tea with chicken soup, mussels, Barra (Jimmy Ferguson's) pork with Alistair's potatoes, and some jelly for pudding.

I've learned quite a bit over this few days, not least that mussels like a bit of fresh water. So with my faith in humanity refreshed and my water bottles full, I head off to face the next challenge...

Day 7: Blue Lagoon to Loch Ayenort (16Nm, 6hrs)

Another good day - the longest yet. It has been a day that I could not have predicted. I am now of all places, in luxury accommodation – an Otter Hide - it has four walls, a door, a roof, and even a window! The events of today that led up to this were...

I was up at 7.30am for an early start to the long day ahead. I wanted to see how long it took me to get ready, for future reference. It came in a cool total of 2hrs 15mins, including collecting heather, starting a fire and cooking breakfast.

So yesterday I set off on what was to be the longest distance I've paddled yet. It was the second bit of virgin water that I had paddled on the trip, the first being round Berneray/Mingulay, only this time I wouldn't be home for three weeks. It was quite refreshing to be paddling a coastline that I hadn't paddled before, with new things to look at, though I knew that time was tight and that I had to get on. After a nice lunch spot just south of Loch Boisdale, and avoiding the CalMac ferry, I eventually made it to Loch Ayenort around 4.30pm.

When I got ashore I thought I would take advantage of the houses and ask for some water before trying to find a campsite. I got chatting to a guy called Archie, who offered me water, eggs, mussels from the shore below his house, and use of his phone, which I used to check-in with the Coastguard and arrange food pick ups. After some bartering, we arranged for me to do some peat cutting in return for dinner which I thought was a pretty good deal. Archie is going fishing tomorrow in his sailing boat and after yesterday's failed attempts, I'm keen to go along and see how it's done!

Today's food was: breakfast - hard boiled egg, Stornoway black pudding; lunch - bread, jam; dinner - home made soup, scallops fried in butter, oatmeal and cream, and mushroom risotto; and a cup of tea! Wow, creature comforts are great when you haven't had them for a while!

Since the expedition started, I've been noticing an increase in my general levels - maybe because my bodies getting used to the exercise! Also the skin on my hands has turned to leather!

Reflection on today: I was touched by Archie's friendliness, and what I'd like to think is a kind of Hebridean generosity and hospitality. He also offered to let me sleep in the Otter Hide that he built on the shore, which was a warm welcome change from under a tarp.

Day 6: Blue Lagoon (1-2Nm, 4 to 5hrs)

I spent today trying to either catch or find food. Both failed, not for lack of trying.

It’s a nice night again, the mist has come in in the last few hours. That’ll be the forecast warm front I guess. It’s high water just now so the coast looks clean without the 2 to 3m of sea weed.

Firstly I was fishing on the north coast of Gighay with a rod and some mackerel feathers. I have to admit I’ve never caught a mackerel, or anything else now that I think about it, from the sea with a rod, and I had little faith that I was going to this time. I tried deep water, shallow water, flicking it up and down, towing it, but nothing. I came round a point and saw a cormorant looking alert and I thought he/she much be fishing, so I paddled over, scared it off, and had a shot – still nothing. Eventually I got a snag and lost my tackle, so that ended that fishing for the day.

Then I thought I’d try to find some other protein. I was hopeful for mussels. I searched high and low, under a food few stones, sweeping sea weed aside. By the end of my search I had found a grand total of six mussels, and left them where they were to help their sparse population. Does anyone know where mussels like to live?

So no protein for tonight’s dinner again then – unless there’s protein in the stringy sea weed that I cooked? The rest of the day’s time was taken up with collecting and boiling water, cooking dinner, moving the bivvy/tarp to get better shelter from the light shower, and of course the video diary, and planning tomorrow’s journey – approximately 15Nm.

Reflecting on the day, I’ve improved my cooking technique by using stones to support the grill instead of wood which means I’m not wasting wood.

Today’s food: breakfast – last night’s dinner; lunch – bread, jam; dinner – potatoes, shrubs, stringy sea weed, yoghurt cake.

Day 5: Castlebay to Gighay (Blue Lagoon) (6Nm, 3hrs)

Today’s been another good day on the whole with its ups and downs. Trying to leave home this morning took ages because I had loads to do, including putting a Sustainable Expeditions sticker on the side of the boat. It seemed to take forever to get ready and I longed to get on the water in my kayak, where life is simpler.

So eventually I got on the water at 1.30pm after getting up at 6.30am to get ready! I was a wee bit stiff, but after my muscles had warmed up a wee bit it was fine – I could enjoy the paddling as usual. The weather has been fantastic – I think that’s the reason that my experiences have been so positive so far. It the weather was crap I’d probably be in a bad mood and thinking about quitting the trip by now. Anyway, it’s not, so I’ll carry on. I paddled along thee coast on a NE bearing which took me straight to the blue lagoon, after 3 hours of paddling. I feel happy going out to sea now – before I was a bit nervous about leaving the coastline.

Weather forecasts just came on the VHF from Stornoway Coastguard – that makes it 10.10pm – NE F3-4. No good for paddling up the Western Isles, but tomorrow is a hunter gatherer day so it’s ok.

I tried a bit of fishing with mackerel feathers on the way into the lagoon – no joy. I then had a look for mussels – also no joy. I chose my campsite for wood. I chose my campsite for the highest probability of driftwood. No protein in dinner, but it was probably the best dinner yet – potatoes with spinach, flavoured with chives and luvvage. Also, used half and half sea water/fresh water, which seemed to work fine – tatties were tasty. Then rhubarb sweetened with honey, all cooked on an open fire.

All building my level of challenge slowly, loving it so far!

Day 3: Mingulay to Castlebay (4hrs, 12Nm)

Finishing the 1^st leg of my journey, it’s hard to say what has been the best bit so far! It’s all be been fantastic, the paddling, the camping on Mingulay, the wildlife. The circumnavigation was kind of like a warm up for me to get into swing of the expedition thing. It was a chance to paddle in a place I have wanted to paddle since I started paddling! Now my days not trying to get from A to B up the Western Isles will be spent trying to find and catch food.

The highlight of today was in the morning. The seal pups that were on the part of the beach I had camped, had over the 3 days got used to my presence. I didn’t bother them and they didn’t bother me - don’t know if we would have managed this with a group. When I got up in the morning there was one seal pup who didn’t mind me intruding on his beach at all…

I cooked my breakfast of duck egg and nettle omelette and Stornoway black pudding, boiled water for the flask (both on the MSR stove as I now had no wood to even try lighting a fire with), had a wee chat with the boat skipper who takes visitors to Mingulay, then headed off NE back to Castlebay.

Today’s food: breakfast - duck egg and nettle omelette; lunch - 2 x mars bars; dinner - local potatoes, Swiss chard, haggis, neaps, tatties.

Day 2: Round Berneray and Mingulay (4hrs, 12.5Nm)

In one word, today was fantastic, totally making up for the difficulties of yesterday. In a few more words…I woke up this morning, the mist had come in, everything was damp, no chance of getting a fire going even with my emergency firewood imported from Barra. So again, I had to use the emergency stove! I was so hungry and couldn’t wait for porridge, so I had the rest of last night’s pork and potato stew and some of tonight’s pudding - home made carrot cake.

This has made me decide that I’m going to build the level of challenge slowly. It would be very hard for me to start the expedition, having honed all the skills that I will need, so I’m now looking on the trip as a progression of skills and an experiment as to what is actually possible.

I planned my trip round Berneray and Mingulay to work with the tide, first working out the HW/LW times, then working out tidal stream times, then planning a trip to work with the tides. I then did a specific risk assessment, identifying hazards on the planned trip, and identifying escape routes if anything happened (there weren’t many!). I was too tired to write up a journal entry at the time, but I’m writing it now, at home on the computer. Instead, this time, I’ll put a few photos in.

Morning sun shining through mist.

South coast of Berneray.

Cliffs and natural arch, W coast of Mingulay.

Grey seal pups.

There is something beautiful about the innocence of a place like this, not regularly visited or inhabited by humans, it felt like a new level of exposure and solitude. I kind of felt sad to be disturbing the seals in the environment they usually have to themselves. A couple of motor boats visited, I guess they were wildlife spotting, but when the boats came round the point, they scared a lot of the seals away. This somehow made me feel privileged that they were letting me get so close!

So reflecting on the first day, am I going to make any changes? Yes. Kit I’m dropping off at home will be: the 5 litre water container, in favour of a 1-litre SIGG bottle and the bladder in my BA, from now on I’ll just rely on river water; wetsuit - if I have to swim and dive for razor fish/clams, I’ll do it in shorts; on land footwear - don’t have space, sandals and wellies are enough. Kit forgotten in a rush/to add: trowel and toilet paper (the latter for emergency fire lighting).

Today’s food: breakfast - last night’s pork/potato stew; lunch - bread/jam/dried pork; dinner - dried pork and potato stew; pudding - carrot cake.