A Week on the Edge: D4 – Crossing Boreray and climbing Mullach an Eilean (384m)

Today was without a doubt the most amazing one-day sea paddle I've ever done! It hadn't clicked before now that I was actually on St Kilda, but when I was paddling across to Boreray and the gannets were flying overhead, it clicked, and life suddenly seemed very simple – free from worry and able to just be aware of the experience of now.

When I woke up I made a tuna sandwich before anything else because I was so hungry and just wanted food straight away, then fried some sausages and mushrooms to have in another sandwich. Sat chatting to Julie and Uwe most of the morning, thinking about where I'd paddle that day – Boreray was top of the list! So it came to 12 o'clock, I still had a few hours of the north going flood tide left, so I got my stuff together and set off. The crossing was into a small swell which slowed me slightly, nevertheless, one hour later I got to Boreray – wow! I started paddling anticlockwise round the island and passed the landing point which –being a near vertical rocky face with 1m of swell and coated in barnacles – didn't exactly look appealing! 'Would I land there?' I thought to myself. I thought I'd paddle round first and mull over it. A few minutes later I decided 'yes' – this was a once in a lifetime opportunity that I wasn't prepared to miss. Sure it was a tad risky, but what' life without risk? I round the north side of Boreray and slowly Stac an Armin came into sight, towering from the ocean below. Thousands of gannets spiralled above my head.

The swell calmed slightly on the north side which was comforting. Coming round to the west side of Stac an Armin I looked up in awe at the shear cliff face of the highest (190m) sea stack in the British Isles. Found a cave near the bottom of the cliff – as with all caves I'd been in, I was thrilled and sacred in equal measures, wondering if any of the actively eroding rock would choose to fall at that moment.

Crossing back to Boreray was like watching a scene from Lord of the Rings, craggy steep slopes towering from the sea then disappearing into the cloud.

I disturbed a few common seals who were as surprised to see me as I was them! And so I rounded the south tip and got back to the landing spot. This would be the culmination of my 5 star sea kayak training and practice. Having decided on my plan of action, I got my tow rope out, tied it to myself and the boat, slipped into the water and swam over to the barnacle covered rocks, waited for the swell to life me to a step, then climbed up. Pulled boat round and after some painful and dangerous lifting, both for me and the boat, up the near vertical face, I managed to secure the boat using a few climbing anchors.

Phew! Then the next challenge – the rock climb up to the steep grassy slopes – not very technically difficult, but the level of exposure and consequence was unlike anything I'd ever done before in my limited climbing experience! And so I ascended, keeping clear of the cliff edge and eventually reaching the top. Although only after passing the test of the Great Skuas who when I neared the top, continuously took turns at dive bombing me while I dived to the ground to avoid them. (Spot the Skua in the photo below, before it took off to take its turn. Skua videos on the SusExp Youtube page.)

I cautiously approached the summit and, being s?*! scared of heights (or at least standing at the edge of high cliffs) I peered over the summit to thankfully see a steep grassy slope, instead of an overhang into an abyss.

I spent 5 minutes at the top then made my way back down, taking my sweaty crocs off for easier walking and to use as a shield against the Skuas. The descent down the grassy slopes was pleasant but the down climb on the rocks to the boat was definitely a lot more intimidating than the climb up. I did the rough water landing sequence in reverse, jumping into the water then getting back in my boat by getting a leg over and shuffling up the back of the boat.

Relieved to be relatively safe again, I set off back to Hirta, running with the swell and the wind, but nursing a strained elbow which was complaining about the steep reintroduction to sea paddling. 45 minutes later, after some surfing and avoiding the cruise ship, I arrived in Village Bay, completely satisfied with what had been my most amazing sea paddle...ever! Had a wee chat with who had sailed from the Monach Isles in a tiny boat and was camping on the boat with a sheet over the boom – what an incredible journey that must have been – before going into relax. I think I was more relaxed on the water today after experiencing and getting used to the bigger swells yesterday.

The rest of the night is another story which involved Ian the NTS ranger, Glynn the NTS archaeologist, Will the Skua Man, Julie and Uwe, a nice hot meal at a table, whisky and honey schnapps, and lots of laughter tales about the recent weeks.